“New York Nation” was the theme of DKNY’s bold spring collection, which aimed to celebrate the city’s “color, culture and creativity,” as the show notes put it. Donna Karan translated the idea mostly via bright hues, several graphically rendered like a kaleidoscope on oversize silhouettes. Those included the striking red-and-blue V-neck tunic over a full skirt with a soft flounce — imagine Olive Oyl with the energy of a native New Yorker. They were feisty, but perhaps hard to imagine on the gritty urban streets. The subtler colors achieved this more effectively, such as the crisp mint-green parka shown with a striped T-shirt and a miniskirt. It still captured the energy of Gotham, but with just the right control.