In Jason Wu’s second crack at the runway as artistic director of Hugo Boss, he seemed to be more comfortable with the house source material of Teutonic tailoring. But, now, he was confident enough to inject more fashion and more of his own feminine vision into the collection, which was a good thing and presumably why the Boss brass hired him. If his first collection last fall inched the brand’s tradition of strict tailoring and workwear in a softer direction, here it got a firm push.
Wu gave the Boss tenets of shirting and suiting their due but shifted the balance of masculine versus feminine in favor of the latter. Without sacrificing precision, he riffed on the white shirt, opening the show with two short tweed shirtdresses — one sleeveless and collarless, the other more traditional — that were stark in silhouette yet softened with light-gray geometric patterns. A group of navy bonded jersey suiting with lightly tipped seams was gracefully cut with movement. Style-driven women with strict corporate dress codes, rejoice.
Aside from a couple of overly boxy leather jacket and skirt looks, this was a womanly collection grounded in practicality but with room to live the dream. And for that, Wu’s Boss lady had a variety of pretty pastel dresses decorated in graphic beads.