Known for its gigantic proportions, orthopedic-esque footwear and Swedish design cachet, Acne is a label that impresses your hipster friends, yet might not be ideal for date night. But it’s cool to be contrarian, so creative director Jonny Johansson challenged himself to do a spring collection exploring the ideas of sexy and luxury. “Those are two words I usually try to stay away from, but I was kind of inspired to make our interpretation,” he said backstage.
Johansson approached them conceptually, sending up the clichés of moneyed bourgeois who love a good sweater and khaki combination topped off with a soigné scarf tied around the neck and a vanity watch. The sweaters were cut out around the midriff and back, and the khakis done as short shorts and a neat A-line skirt. The watches were exaggerated chain-link bracelets.
While thumbing his nose at the stereotypes of luxe leisure, Johansson embraced them with enough earnest to yield a collection that had both carnal and intellectual appeal. He sexed-up sharp tailoring, letting the neckline of a neat le smoking plunge to the navel. There were nods to the unbuttoned blouse and flared low-rider pants from the height of Nineties Tom Ford mania, here, in abstract prints by artist Raquel Dias that featured flowers, fruits, boobs and lipstick tubes. The show closed with a terry cloth wrap dress, because nothing says luxury like lounging in a plush towel all day.