Inspired by Nastassja Kinski in “Cat People,” Pedro Lourenço’s spring collection had “a very Eighties aesthetic, but in a high-tech way,” he said.
Stretch crop tops, cutout bras and halters had Neoprene and leather trim and wrap skirts that poufed at the hips came in paneled leather and sequins with zebra and giraffe prints. The fabric development of lasered crepe and Neoprene and bonded leathers, all done in the designer’s native Brazil, was impressive. Seeing the clothes on a rack, as Lourenço presented by appointment in the Bristol Hotel, one could envision women wanting a piece here or there.
Less understandable was his hyper-exclusive positioning. Lourenço is seeking only one point of sale in London, which he was not ready to reveal. Whatever isn’t picked up by that retailer will be sold on Lourenço’s on Web site. He also produces a separate, more commercial collection only for the Brazilian market.
“Exclusivity is very important to me,” said Lourenço. “Everything has become too affordable. You go and see the same clothes all over. I would love to be the new haute couture.”
It’s a curious strategy that begs the question, why present at all if your solitary retailer is already lined up?