Roland Mouret dreams of merchandise. His spring show was dedicated to 952 Madison Avenue, the location of his first U.S. store, forthcoming in November. “It’s the concept of desirability,” he explained. “You want to steal it from the rack — I want it now!”
This line of thinking has kept Mouret closely connected to his customers, whose ultimate desire is to be desired. To entice them, the designer infused his figure-flattering silhouettes, famous for magically nipping and tucking in all the right places, with a youth serum of color — white, green, yellow, pink, purple and orange — and flirtatious cuts. Skirts were short and flared; tops were fitted, slightly cropped and shaped with origami folds and sculpted panels to accentuate the bust. There was structure to honeycomb silks and waffle cottons, and softness in fluid, color-blocked dresses with pert shirt collars and suggestive cutouts. The looks with a raw, playful edge, such as fringed bouclé tops and pencil skirts and a crisp, apronlike romper with a bonded floral pattern, felt the most fresh of the varied lineup. Come merch time on Madison, Mouret’s customers will find plenty from which to choose.