A giant sculpture of a cherry carved into a skull face was plunked on Jun Takahashi’s runway for his Undercover show. The set design accompanied a lineup that told a somber fairy tale, with shades of “Black Swan” thrown in for good measure.
Models emerged in crinoline dresses in candied almond shades, though the spiky bloom-shaped rings sprouting from their interlaced fingers suggested another side to the story. Art Nouveau-style prints bore further hints of danger: One resembled a trompe l’oeil skull; the other consisted of flowers with batwing-shaped leaves.
Takahashi progressed from folkloric elements like puff-sleeved blouses and full peasant skirts to thornier fare, such as outfits printed with scenes from Hieronymus Bosch’s triptych “The Garden of Earthly Delights.”
“They started from innocence, but it’s like getting older, the reality is that it becomes like craziness,” Takahashi said through an interpreter backstage.
Broken mirror details on a sequence of chic purple-and-cream ensembles signaled the “Black Swan” theme, which flourished with a set of biker jackets with cutout printed fabric feathers at the shoulders. A finale of black-clad angels drew the curtain on Takahashi’s beautiful dark twisted fantasy.