A bourgeoise faced with sudden loss of social status was the inspiration for Véronique Leroy’s show.
The designer viewed the unfortunate heroine through the prism of what she termed “mutant” fabrics that were deliberately off-kilter. Streamlined outfits made of silk and cotton crepe came in drab combinations of maroon and pink, while a navy coat with graphic patch pockets was laminated with brown mesh.
Macro ladder hemstitch insets on skirts and coats skewed and randomly broke off in places, like a time line interrupted. Leroy said she imagined her protagonist maintaining her dignity by playing with the clichés of her former lifestyle, but the stripped-down versions of skirt suits and trim blouses gave off a defeated air.
Toward the end, a couple of chic shift dresses in a pebble-patterned velvet devoré hinted she could yet climb back up that ladder.