As the name suggests, Vetements, which is designed by a revolving collective, is out to create a wardrobe of clothing staples: the trench, the perfecto, the sweater.
“But we always try to give it something extra,” Demna Gvasalia, one of the team’s creative heads, explained backstage after the label’s first runway outing.
Cue an uninhibited play on proportions that, at times, bordered on the extreme, as in a series of superslouchy sweatpants or the extra-long sleeves on some shirts and trenchcoats.
Much of the show treaded ground covered years ago by Martin Margiela. And yet some of the dressier numbers were striking, including an oversize checkered men’s coat worn atop a yellow lingerie wrap dress. It had just the right doses of sexiness and cool.