Unlike the many other brands that show during Tokyo Fashion Week, KBF is backed by a large retailing group, Urban Research, which has 20 stores across Japan and price points in roughly the same ballpark as the Gap’s or Uniqlo’s. But despite its mass-market target, KBF’s spring collection was surprisingly edgy, thanks to innovative fabric research.
Designers Mika Horaguchi, Kana Sakurai and Yae Matsuoka said they aimed to create clothes that interact with light in different ways as they move with the body. To accomplish this, they used a range of materials in various weights and textures that reflect, refract or absorb light. Gossamer-thin, sheer fabrics were fashioned into flowy skirts, while slightly stiffer, shimmery ones were used in loose trousers. Wide-leg, paper-bag-waisted pants, cropped tops in several shapes and sizes and calf-length skirts looked chic.
A pair of pale-yellow overalls in a fluid, matte fabric was both sexy and tomboyish worn with a bralette, and semisheer cropped sweaters contrasted nicely with chunkier, cable-knit shorts in pastel. The otherwise stylish show closed with a couple of odd looks in which clear vinyl skirts or dresses were worn over white pants or briefs and bra tops.