Antonio Berardi played with the contrast between precise tailoring and romantic fluidity in this glamorous yet relaxed collection.
The standouts were languid silk dresses with billowing trains, as in a racer-back number in a pale sky blue. That design was worn with a matching silk trenchcoat that slipped off the model’s shoulders, adding to the collection’s undone air. And naturally, for a designer whose collections are typically high-octane, there was plenty of embellishment — only this season Berardi worked his decoration in a comparatively low-key way. A series of silk dresses were stitched with a lavish paisley pattern of sequins, but they were matte rather than shiny.
A masculine foil to the ultrafeminine looks came via tuxedo suits that were sharply cut, but worked in relaxed, oversize shapes. Among them was a gleaming white tuxedo with black lapels and rounded, cocooning shoulders.