Let Erdem Moralioglu costume the chicest little house on the prairie. His transporting spring show, with models treading on soil under dim porch lamps, melded pioneer silhouettes with painstaking floral embellishments. It captured the pretty, romantic spirit infecting the London season.
Was it Riccardo Tisci who ignited a fascination for Victoriana with his hit fall collection for Givenchy? Chez Erdem, ticking stripes and broderie anglaise evoked that era — as did the dresses with trains, impractical yet lovely to watch as models mounted stairs to pass over a bridge joining the twin runways.
Moralioglu focused almost exclusively on long dresses, adding puffs of volume around the wrists and elbows — and to skirts via tiers and rows of ruffles. Most were floor-length, but some hit at mid-calf. Several dresses, intricately constructed from guipure and doily lace, were reminiscent of recent Valentino, whose demure and decorated femininity have cast a long shadow on recent fashion.
Moralioglu’s lavish compositions were superb and delicate, with an heirloom quality that’s a compelling riposte in an era of 3-D printing and smart textiles.