The setting for Giles Deacon’s spring show was London’s Banqueting House, an ornate building that’s part of the 17th-century Whitehall Palace, complete with a Rubens ceiling. The lavish location suited his high-drama collection. Runway veterans including Eva Herzigova, Erin O’Connor and Karen Elson snaked around the vast room wearing often fantastical gowns whose shapes evoked everything from ruffled petticoats to Elizabethan silhouettes.
One satin bustier dress was structured with stiff panniers and intricately embroidered with flowers, while another standout worn by Elson was done in a purple abstract print, with laser-cut edges that looked as if they had been charred by fire and a fan of material at the back that resembled unfurled peacock feathers.
Even Deacon’s calmer exits were still statement-making, as in a body-hugging, bias-cut gown with a train, or a silk petticoat dress with tiered, billowing skirts. The collection was beautiful and arresting, and while its historical opulence overwhelmed real-world dressing, this also gave it an otherworldly, romantic appeal.