Holly Fulton quite literally applied the fetish motifs, sulfuric colors and Surrealist spirit of late British artist Eileen Agar to her spring collection.
It was a lot to take in: 3-D starfish motifs repeated endlessly in matte silicone; colorful pinwheel-like embroideries and crystal embellishments racing up and down denim outfits; ruffles that swooped up from hems and coiled on the front of narrow skirts.
The shapes were more controlled. Fulton loves a fitted bodice, ladylike skirts and dresses and lean Seventies flares. These offered a clean canvas for her freewheeling approach to surface decoration, meant to reflect Agar’s ebullient spirit. After all, this is a woman who told Channel Four before her death in 1989: “I’ve enjoyed life and it shows through like a transparent skirt.”