Does a woman look more powerful in a printed top with big leg-of-mutton sleeves and printed balloon pants — or the skimpiest wire bra and a short bandage skirt? It’s all the same for Jonathan Anderson, who embraces fashion’s warp speed and dares to put all of the above on the same runway.
With Fran Lebowitz musing about art and whatnot on the soundtrack, culled from a 2010 Martin Scorsese documentary, this was a disorienting show as his spring collection pinged between boudoir lace, graphic Keith Haring squiggles on coated cotton and padded or scrunched leather edged with lasagna ruffles. Slipdresses in crinkly and wet-look fabrics, paired with lace biker shorts, were new territory for the buzzy young designer, who said his show was based on “the idea of a woman’s odyssey — Olympics, galactic.”
While the collection lacked focus, the unifying idea seemed to be an outfit or uniform approach to dressing, whether in sex-kitten or space-cadet mode. Knit ensembles predominated – tunic and pant combos, mainly – the coolest knotted at the wrist and the ankle, or edged in contrast stitching. The frothy, gauzy lingerie looks were particularly fetching.
On the other end of the spectrum were those leg-of-mutton outfits in noisy and clashing wallpaper prints that practically swallowed Anderson’s young models. It seems fashion, like Lebowitz’s wit, can be sardonic, too.