To Alberta Ferretti, all women are goddesses and they should dress the part, quite literally. After all, she’s known for her modernization of Greco-Roman fable garb. For spring, her muse was the lady of the desert, moved by light, big open spaces and an open mind — Burning Man was a reference in Ferretti’s show notes.
The ethereal nature of the collection was no surprise, but its rich sand-and-shadow color scheme of beige, black and rust felt new and gave chic tonal depth to romantic bohemian. Accessorizing everything with hammered, leather-bound metal jewelry and gladiators gave the look a tribal vibe. Indeed, backstage before the show Ferretti said she had focused on a more diverse casting than usual “because fashion speaks to all of the world.” It also worked with the lineup’s vaguely African, dune-swept motif.
The first portion of the show, which emphasized slipdresses, folkloric shirts and shorts in filmy splices of black lace and tawny brown chiffon with bare lingerie cuts, was the strongest. Layering some of the looks with ivory peasant blouses for a folksy naïveté was needless. The bareness of the slips and bra tops gave the lineup a sexy edge before it progressed into a parade of hippie-luxe gowns and separates — all gorgeously crafted if a bit predictable — that looked like the dream wardrobe for an indie-glam beach bunny on a posh holiday.