Talk about having it both ways. Anna Molinari’s Blumarine collection for spring included everything — and its opposite. She offered ultrasheer tulle and heavy washed canvas; neutral tones and acid brights, and long and short hemlines.


Cerebral types might opt for the voluminous palazzo pants, spliced at the sides, which were paired with sweeping duster coats or cropped vests with bulging cargo pockets. For well-toned extroverts, there were whisper-thin nude dresses and skirts embroidered with black roses or multicolored blooms.


Molinari defended her decision to cast a wide net. “We didn’t want them to be all dressed the same as if they were headed to Sunday Mass. We wanted to give each one a distinct personality,” she said backstage. “We think that the right approach for today, in light of globalization, is to target everyone, whether Italian, American or Chinese.”


The designer revealed she has resisted pressure to ditch the rose patterns that are a signature of her romantic aesthetic, protesting, “I am the queen of roses!” She had a point: While Blumarine needs to modernize, it shouldn’t try to be all things to all people.