At a time when strong styling and a mix-and-match attitude seem to be key for success, Ennio Capasa took the opposite direction with his Costume National spring collection.
Coherence and cohesiveness were the principles of the lineup, which revolved around a chic, elegant look infused with a touch of subdued sensuality. This emerged from the contrast of the rigorous and the soft, the masculine and the feminine.
The first look — a sharply cut top in Japanese denim with graphic cutouts at the shoulders, paired with an asymmetric silk miniskirt — set the tone for the show, which also included linear cigarette pants worn with a tailored vest enriched by a peplum. Opting for simpler and less intricate constructions than in the past, Capasa kept silhouettes fluid on plissé dresses with plunging V-necks and see-through tops worn with shorts and miniskirts featuring geometric slits.
The collection, with its white-and-black combinations juxtaposed against flashes of red and silver, reflected the original spirit of the label but also showed a new, fresher feel. As a result, Costume National should appeal to a wider target than in past seasons.