Guests at Damir Doma’s runway show, held in a raw garage space in central Milan, were handed an inspiration book full of works by Antoni Tàpies. The reason soon became clear: The Catalan artist’s “matter paintings” informed a collection rich in volume and texture.

 

Fabric was draped and knotted around the body with loops or circular clips, creating soft sculptural folds. A crisp, white, oversize shirt, tied over one hip, was paired with a monochrome tube skirt in a rough patchwork of knits.

 

Doma, showing his first women’s collection since relocating his brand to Milan, said the move has allowed him to take a more hands-on approach, as he is closer to his manufacturers. “I don’t like to work flat in sketches,” he said. “I mean, I’m a fashion designer, but I always like to work with my hands, to drape on the body, on the bust. To be here really allows me to do this again, and I think it’s very visible in this collection.”

 

Doma even managed to tease volume out of two rectangular panels, which he knotted together to make surprisingly feminine dresses and tops. Sticking to a muted palette of black, white and gray, he relied on mineral fil coupé fabrics and paint-effect devoré chiffon to add surface interest to his minimal looks. The stripped-down display conveyed a feeling of serene individuality.

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