Exquisite fabrics, sophisticated constructions, elegant color combinations — these were the ingredients that made Gabriele Colangelo’s spring collection both intriguing and beautiful.

 

This was not necessarily an easy-to-understand lineup. The designer took some risks by mixing fabrics with different weights, playing with lines and using some colors more evocative of fall than summer. The result might have been too intricate, intellectual and heavy. Luckily, that was not the case.

 

Colangelo also succeeded in injecting freshness into his more architectural pieces. These included color-blocked organza plissé dresses decorated with geometric see-through inserts and graphic velvet details, as well as an asymmetric coat crafted from an exclusive material with a shaggy effect inspired by traditional African kente woven material.

 

Everything was infused with a certain rigor, livened up by playful elements, including the long-haired Kidassia fur details used to enrich a shirtlike jacket with flared sleeves, as well as day bags.