For his first Iceberg collection, new creative director Arthur Arbesser delivered a lineup that was literally 85 percent knitted pieces, he said backstage before the show. It was a smart choice considering that not only is Iceberg owned by Gilmar — a specialist in the segment — but also that knits were the label’s core business in its golden age when Jean-Charles de Castelbajac was creative director.
Following several seasons of Alexis Martial infusing his Iceberg collections with a certain clinical, quite futuristic look, Arbesser brought a fun and playful mood back to the brand. Bold vertical stripes gave a lighthearted twist to polo shirts, skirts with front slits, pants and dresses — all knitted. The pattern was also combined with a motif inspired by painter Enrico Baj’s works on body-hugging minidresses and a skin-tight jumpsuit.
Arbesser cut the silhouette more fluidly on a range of ribbed designs, including a shirt paired with a feminine wrap skirt, as well as a dress with side slits and a zip detail. He also played with leather — a patent version used for a zippered urban jacket and a metallic option offered on perforated pants and a short-sleeved shirt — as well as nylon, which he used on a sporty, oversize, see-through parka.
With this fun, youthful collection, Arbesser showed respect for the brand’s original heritage but also affirmed his personal aesthetic vision: simple shapes peppered by frisky, sometimes fearless, color combinations.