All has been quiet on the runway front at Jil Sander since she herself exited the company. A year into his tenure as creative director, Rodolfo Paglialunga has done an adequate job adhering to the house’s minimalist credo, designing nice, chicly practical clothes with a creative inflection here and there.
So went the story for spring. Paglialunga’s collection began and ended with soft, white silks — blouses with slashed sleeves and skirts tied off in a knot to start, plus a neatly cut natural-toned blazer with little slits at the shoulders, and a loose, long-sleeved tunic dress with utility strap details at the chest and hem. In between came riffs on shirting such as a periwinkle blue shirtdress twisted at the midriff with a cutout along the waist. A red leather coat was the brightest moment, while a pale pink-and-mauve apron dress provided the lineup’s most interesting construction with its spare, plainly cut pieces of fabric that resembled paper tacked together.
Customers in the market for quality clothes that are slightly left of classic could happily shop here. But anyone seeking a dynamic, distinct aesthetic direction wouldn’t find one. A new chief executive officer, Alessandra Bettari, was named in June. The house seems rudderless as yet, but perhaps the winds will pick up.