Stefania Bandiera, creative director of Italian label Les Copains, billed her spring collection as a modern-day take on “Madame Butterfly” — an opportunity to showcase dense embroidery mimicking porcelain patterns and origami-inspired 3-D knits.

 

In keeping with the house’s knitwear tradition, Bandiera wisely grounded the ornamentation with a healthy dose of athletic ease; for instance, pairing a richly embroidered white top and plain cropped pants with a cream rib-knit maxi cardigan inspired by martial arts uniforms. “This way, she becomes the symbol of a globalized world where there are constant cultural overlaps,” Bandiera explained backstage.

 

The mostly neutral palette put the emphasis on textural effects, achieved thanks to fabric experiments such as the moiré pattern on several dresses made of ultrafine knit bonded with organza. Bold graphic stripes — reminiscent of an obi belt — ran through the collection, punctuating everything from evening gowns to cropped tops. Thick black elastic straps from the ankle to just below the knee transformed evening shoes into superchic gladiator heels.

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