Marco de Vincenzo’s clothes are like fireworks — dazzling compositions of color, pattern and sparkle.

 

His spring collection was a stunner, loaded with his fetish elements: pleated Lurex, dreamy dégradés, metallic leather and other surprising textures. His big statement this season was crepe georgette laser-cut into fringe and hand-sewn onto weightless coats, flared pants, T-shirts and tunics with maximum drama, resembling something between fur and feathers — yet otherworldly.

 

The surprise of the show came in sexy cocktail dresses, the breasts exalted with underwires, or magnified with lace in optical Victor Vasarely patterns. “It’s all about following my instinct for color,” de Vincenzo said backstage, no mood board in sight. The designer, who also moonlights at Fendi, is something of a fabric whisperer. “It’s impossible for me to start without anything in my hands,” he said, showing off a skirt quilted in wave patterns resembling Japanese woodblock prints.

 

In fact, Japanese motifs and fabrics recurred throughout the collection, yet rendered in surprising ways as in a silk jacquard biker jacket, or a loose blouse fronted with a mountain landscape.

 

In a Milan season of quirky prints and bold color, de Vincenzo had an edge with his inimitable pyrotechnics.

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