Max Mara Group had enough grommets and fishnet left over from the Max Mara show for the marine theme to spill over into its Sportmax label. Here, the seafaring signatures — rain-slicker yellow, dockworker dungarees — were melded with perky A-line shapes and a Sixties Courrèges gloss, yielding a young, graphic and fetching collection.
The outerwear — pale macs and parkas edged in gleaming black leatherette — was strong. Ditto the leather shirts and fluted pants: cool, minimalist items with a lot of legs. Shirttail hems looked fetching, lapping under swingy toppers. Oval and porthole shapes recurred as contrast zippered pockets on trousers, pinafores and long, flaring dresses.
The combination of loose shapes and crisp colors — mostly black and white with flashes of yellow, orange and navy — looked shipshape.