Greg Armas’ spring outing for Assembly was an “examination of history and the process of time,” according to his show notes. And his garments did have a lived-in quality to them, from the appropriated denim patchwork shift dress to a trouser version with raw edges. “We have our own shops we get a lot of feedback from our clients in terms of what they want from us — they want denim, summer blacks, vintage peeling fabrics,” explained the designer.


Consequently the color black was predominant, in natural fabrics and his version of “uniform” looks. But it was the infusion of red pops here and there — most memorably in a maxi slipdress worn over a black T-shirt with rolled-up sleeves and a white denim zip-up jumpsuit and trench combo — where Armas pushed the envelope to refreshing effect.

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