Jason Wu approached spring with the intention of creating his softest version yet of Boss’ technical tailoring. In doing so, he designed his best collection thus far for the house. “The tailoring aesthetic doesn’t just come from a jacket or a suit per se,” said Wu backstage. “Look at a shirtdress that’s been really well-tailored.”
He delivered on that premise with two crisp, white shirtdresses, one in a spare, wrap construction, the other spliced with airy panels of sheer technical organza. This fabric was a great tool for giving breathing room and modern movement to sharp shirts and structured shift dresses. Wu also used the technical organza on bright wrap dresses in yellow, blue and rust that displayed a minimalist femininity.
More classic takes on tailoring included clean, loosely structured jackets and cropped wide trousers that felt fresh in stark white. A few jackets, long vests and sporty slim dresses were trimmed in fringe, a detail that is offering a chic solution to decorative banality in a lot of collections right now. Along the way, square, structured top-handle bags in multicolored geometric patterns contrasted the bright, clinical hues with a touch of craftiness.
The show ended on a resolutely chic note with three riffs on traditional black tailored suits turned sensual and modern: a lean off-the-shoulder dress, a strapless jumpsuit with a sleek fold-over take on a satin lapel and a plain black jacket. No nonsense. Boss hired Wu to infuse its pragmatic focus with glamour and he’s proving to be the man for the job.