Carmen Marc Valvo was clearly smitten with all things zen. Minimal fuss, classic black-and-white, flowers and bold strokes of color were manifested simply in slender double-faced wool or lace cocktail dresses — some with leather paillettes or python insets. Lacquered leather detailed an ebony-and-white pleated chiffon gown and surfaced all over as nude paillettes on a short slim dress and a black tunic with a crepe and lace skirt. Charming silk organza pajamas paired a tie-front shirt in a dragonfly print with matching sheer, cropped pants.
The painterly prints, silky fabrics and ornate embroideries didn’t work well in men’s wear silhouettes, however, making the offering feel like a true afterthought to the women’s.
What did stand on its own was the women’s swimwear. In recent seasons Valvo has upped his game in the category and several of his spring offerings were worth noting — in particular, the swimsuits and palazzo pants with peony or crane calligraphy motifs as well as the ivory racer-back suit.