Chris Gelinas’ whimsically feminine spring effort, shown in a garden presentation, was about “controlled vulnerability,” which he viewed as empowering to women. It was evident in intentional but never disheveled details, such as the fallen shoulder straps on a floral-printed day dress. “There’s a delicacy in exposed things,” the designer said.


Navy blue shirtdresses in silk and cotton fil coupe — printed with green and red poppies inspired by Irving Penn — were engineered with deep plackets left unbuttoned to reveal skin or trousers beneath. Gelinas’ smart plaid suiting juxtaposed the collection’s softer elements, but the highlight was a white cotton double-placket day dress with laser-cut floral embroidery, layered over a pair of sheer silk organza pants  — a chicly original idea for evening.

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