“Skin,” “masking,” “uninhibited” and “primal” were a few of the buzzwords on Dion Lee’s show notes for spring. “I wanted air and light to be able to move through the clothes,” Lee said backstage. He accomplished this by using some of his techniques from past seasons — perforations, tiered and ruffled hemlines, and slicing effects — into a soft lineup of fit-and-flare dresses, skirts and outerwear.
The collection included creamy white, pale pink and burnt orange suede, and silk that swelled in a crescendo of darker hues of black and navy. Lee captured a feeling of weightlessness in his fluid silk suiting, decorated with suede insets for an unexpected textural play. But the best looks closed the show. They displayed a combination of knitting and weaving techniques using contrasting shades of leather, suede and triple jersey for an intricate braidlike effect that balanced the romance with a bit of toughness.