Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta channeled a more youthful, street-focused vibe for spring. The quirky conceptualism the duo has become known for was undeniably present, but with a few more looks for the less experimental. The runway lineup of friends and other nonmodels — including actress/writer Grace Dunham (Lena’s little sister), artist India Salvor Menuez and performance artist Alexandra Marzella — provided the collection with some real-world appeal.
Edgy design details gave an urban feel to the women’s wear — paneling, splicing and cutouts done in iridescent polyester, neutral hand-loomed knits, organic Peruvian cotton and velvet, to name a few. These were most effective on simpler silhouettes: a languid, long black dress with spliced skirt, or black paneled pants paired with a painterly top (wearable art as part of an upcoming collaboration with artist Annabeth Marks). Superfine knits and lightweight linens provided layering options; it was only the wackier designs (underboob, anyone?) that could have been excluded.
Men’s looks veered considerably toward the more commercial. Similar fabric treatments to the women’s wear were done to great effect on pants, including a fluid black pair with side cutouts worn with a simple blue T, or a denim-on-denim version with exposed knees. Overall, it was a collection for the cool kids from a brand with a lot of ideas.