In only his second season designing for the Jil Sander Navy label, creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga has changed it into a young, vibrant and playful collection. He pulled from many references for spring, but they all worked together in a lively melange. Eclectic prints — including an homage to Henri Matisse and minimalistic Hawaiian florals — could be found on everything from floaty dresses to asymmetric skirts. Multicolored jacquard patterns included pixelated patterns and a stripe that was based on an Italian sunbed fabric.
But the big message was layering: Skirts were worn over each other with the underskirt having a visible boxer waistband as a throwback to street style, peplumlike belts were created to wear over skirts or dresses — and even be around the shoulders. Cropped knits were key as they could be layered over anything and everything. Paglialunga also had a sporty moment with parka references, both as a skirt and a dress. It was a lot to take in, but somehow it all worked in a colorful and quite charming way.