Karen Walker orbited into outer space for spring. The impetus for her collection was Star City, a highly secretive astronaut and cosmonaut training base founded in the Sixties near Moscow. So how did this translate into Walker’s always cool and kitschy vision? Let’s just say it’s “folk meets utility meets glam,” she said backstage.
The New Zealand designer juxtaposed traditional Russian folksy style and space science in a lighthearted way. The starry motifs were a take on Russian propaganda at the time and were found on quirky intarsia knit sweaters and bold dresses. Gold leather separates gave a futuristic feel, and hardware such as zips, metal clasps and taping were utility inspired. These industrial elements were offset by romantic embroidered blouses, ruffled knit tops and delicate pleated skirts for a lighter hand. Although the contrast of futurism and folk seemed extreme, the end result was youthful and fun.