For her first New York Fashion Week presentation, California native Raquel Allegra dove into her vintage archives, sourcing inspiration from her early prints and concepts, particularly the shredding and tie-dye techniques for which she has become known. There were elements of deconstruction in almost every look, whether a torn T layered loose beneath a floral-printed T-shirt dress or the edges of a silk dress left intentionally raw.

Allegra kept her proportions generous, especially on pajamalike striped suiting, palazzo pants, caftan dresses and gauzy tunics. “Some of these silhouettes are inspired by pieces I’ve had since ninth grade,” she said, referencing a Seventies-style long-sleeve, tie-neck gown in a washed-out tie-dye print. Every one of her models looked California cool — if not terribly modern or directional.