Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli stayed true to their muse, Marie Antoinette, but with more moxie than one might expect. And still, their collection for Red Valentino was abundant with charm that never got coy or too precious. Strapless corsets and short or long overalls with delicate ruffles, floral trenchcoats and lots of black — especially the corset dress of leather and point d’esprit — all were reminders that this is spring 2016, where a little edge is always welcome.


When the designers were unapologetically sweet, the result was lovely: delicate floral mid-calf dresses detailed with embroidered Peter Pan collars, ruffles or petticoats; lingerie details and appliquéd blouses with baby doll sleeves and lots of Versailles-influenced florals; and white and pink lace. The real breath of fresh air here was that Red Valentino is on its own trend-free path.

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