“Funny” is a word Pookie Burch uses quite a bit to describe her collections for Trademark. Spring 2016, for example, included a “funny little take on a denim jacket,” “a funny little raincoat” in plastic and shirts, sweaters, scarves and some nifty flat slides decorated with pom poms, which Burch considers “funny.”
She was not joking, but there was a wink-wink throughout the lineup, which was inspired by Italy in the Sixties — a photograph of Ingrid Bergman and Isabella Rossellini, in particular — and the Eighties, with a sweater with a giant tomato on it. It was fun and funny. There was a dose of retro kitsch, most prominent in the Eighties prepster cashmere V-neck sweaters — the first time Trademark has done cashmere — and the dotty cardigans, but Burch served it with sophistication and quality execution that enhanced all the funny little details.