Victor Alfaro has re-established himself rather quickly as a fashion force. While he relaunched his brand several seasons ago with a racy vibe, his trajectory has been toward a more overt take on languid luxe with a dash of arty. For spring, Ellsworth Kelly provided inspiration and, like the painter, the designer went minimal but not mundane. He incorporated ample geometry, layering, mixing fabrics and textures, seaming on the diagonal, and often connecting sliced fabrics with opaque strips for interest and sensuality while creating strong graphic lines. While much of the collection was black and pale neutrals, pops of Kelly color came in bright orange and yellow.
Backstage before the show Alfaro said he started his design process with sweaters, a basic beginning that morphed into an artisanal range of sumptuous hand-framed, fabric compilations — thick, braided knits; unfussy crochets and laces — over wide trousers and cropped motocross pants. For additional flourish, he strung long overlays of fringe onto dresses and gowns, some in “vegan leather,” and accessorized with Pilar Olaverri’s bold Calder-inspired jewelry. Relaxed American chic at its elevated best.