Wes Gordon has established a solid message in his six-year tenure: timeless sophistication with a youthful edge. “This season we pushed it further,” he said backstage at his spring runway show.

The most obvious evidence was the contrast play between demure and fragile. A delicate white silk gauze and honeycomb lace slipdress, for example, was paired with a sober natural canvas blazer, and a hand-knit tank with an ethereal open-weave detail was paired with a marigold leather pencil skirt — setting the tone for Gordon’s beautiful balancing act. He also played with flirtatious silhouettes, as in a yellow cotton dress with a ruffle hem and a short plaid style with lace inserts and a flared hem.

But Gordon did not entirely test the boundaries until the end, when metal-chain embroideries infused the collection with a welcome edge. Most successful was a sheath worn under a fractured jacquard coat, and a white silk chiffon open-shoulder gown with handwoven cording embroidery along the bodice.