Although expected front-row guests Robyn and M.I.A. were MIA at Acne Studios’ spring show, the musician theme was hard to miss on the runway as creative director Jonny Johansson plunked embroidered Plexiglas and chrome guitars onto boxy suit jackets and slim trousers. Noisy “sound-wave” zigzags and big circles resembling CDs often overwhelmed velvet column dresses and loose satin coats.
Less gimmicky exits — the cool of a crushed velvet minidress amplified with thigh-high sneaker-boots and New Wave sunglasses — had more impact. The mannish tailoring was strong: minimalist jackets patched with geometric shapes in glossy leather, snakeskin or satin, or edged in jagged fringe.
Perforated knitwear was shredded here and there, suggesting too many hours in the mosh pit. This collection — for the most part sharp and clean — marked a big improvement over last season’s felt-a-thon.