It was clear from Alexandre Plokhov’s sophomore effort that he is driven by the desire to dress real-world women. The men’s wear veteran applied his patternmaking skills to a range of highly wearable separates for spring that exuded a timeless allure.

 

Plokhov’s motivation, it turns out, was personal. “What can I say? Of course I design for intellectual stimulation, but I also have a wonderful wife and would like her to wear what I do,” he said.

 

Still, the designer’s minimalist aesthetic — built on mostly black, navy and sulfur yellow — did not come without a dose of playfulness. Pleats were applied with care to full skirts and the shoulders of a T-shirt made from traditional men’s shirting fabric, creating just the right amount of volume while keeping the lines sharp. Monochromatic patchworking and distressed materials — some needle-punched to produce a burnout effect — added a pinch of drama to a classic T-shirt or bomber.

 

Standouts included a long, sleeveless vest with austere yet refined construction, which Plokhov defined as “priestly,” and a modernist leather blouson with a flap pocket and three-quarter sleeves.