The neo-gothic tribeswomen on Ann Demeulemeester’s spring runway displayed a taste for tailoring, transparency and S&M. Art director Sébastien Meunier layered black-and-white leather harnesses with thick collars and a thin vertical strip that bisected the torso over tight, sheer bodysuits and under long, lean, sheer tank dresses with droopy cutouts. The bondage accents and emphasis on sheerness instantly put the lineup in a sexy context.
Despite fleshing out the looks with the dark sweeping, tribal/military underlayers — an effect that added depth — and relaxed black tailoring for which Demeulemeester was known, the lineup was empty of her shadowy, poetic allure. It’s a shame to see a beloved collection atrophy. The runway requires a stronger, more relevant direction, whether it pays homage to Demeulemeester’s work or forges a new path.