Anne Sofie Madsen opened her show with an oversize trench, but her spring collection was as much about what was underneath. Covering up versus baring it all — the designer explored those conflicting impulses with outfits that alternated between enveloping the body and leaving it exposed.

 

Some looks managed to do both at once: Palazzo pants — legs made from curling seamless denim panels — were paired with a nude tulle top embellished with a sprinkling of synthetic tendrils.

 

Flesh-toned dresses featured oversize corsetry details, while materials typically associated with bondage — latex rubber and metal rings — were used to add a subversive edge to Madsen’s riffs on the déshabillé look, which is emerging as a major trend of the spring season.

 

Despite that, the more buttoned-up styles ended up being the most beguiling. Case in point: A beige maxi trench with undulating black-lined panels on the lower half. As Coco Chanel put it, “Elegance is refusal.”

By  on September 30, 2015

Anne Sofie Madsen opened her show with an oversize trench, but her spring collection was as much about what was underneath. Covering up versus baring it all — the designer explored those conflicting impulses with outfits that alternated between enveloping the body and leaving it exposed.

 

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