Anne Sofie Madsen opened her show with an oversize trench, but her spring collection was as much about what was underneath. Covering up versus baring it all — the designer explored those conflicting impulses with outfits that alternated between enveloping the body and leaving it exposed.
Some looks managed to do both at once: Palazzo pants — legs made from curling seamless denim panels — were paired with a nude tulle top embellished with a sprinkling of synthetic tendrils.
Flesh-toned dresses featured oversize corsetry details, while materials typically associated with bondage — latex rubber and metal rings — were used to add a subversive edge to Madsen’s riffs on the déshabillé look, which is emerging as a major trend of the spring season.
Despite that, the more buttoned-up styles ended up being the most beguiling. Case in point: A beige maxi trench with undulating black-lined panels on the lower half. As Coco Chanel put it, “Elegance is refusal.”