Can a different drummer ground herself in the classics? Bouchra Jarrar has, building her company on a fusion of masculine and feminine elements that riff on traditional couture motifs and techniques of construction.
Hers is a specific vision, advanced deliberately and at her own steadfast pace, which is to say, one seemingly at odds with the notion of frenzied seasonal flip-flops. For spring, Jarrar continued with the reed-thin trouser looks she loves, often with tricolor tops cut with her now-signature diagonal detailing. Yet she also explored a new ease in a linear but relaxed silhouette based on a midcalf pleated skirt. Worn with brogues, this sometimes had a cool, gawky effect — but not always.
In her showroom presentation, Jarrar dressed and redressed her models, swapping out, for example, a printed sleeveless coat for a short lace jacket, or a racy leather jacket for a long, abstract animal-print vest. In so doing, she highlighted the wardrobe-building, mix-and-match pragmatism of the clothes without ever swapping out their chic.