Cédric Charlier went back to basics for his spring collection, which was an exercise in the art of simplicity. The designer had been drawn to the work of British abstract painter Victor Pasmore, resulting in a lineup of uncluttered outfits in breezy pastel shades, punctuated by dashes of indigo, ochre and forest green.
“He drew abstract, round, sensual shapes, so that influenced the way the clothes are cut. I push the ergonomic aspect until it becomes something more dreamy,” Charlier said backstage. “There is an essential, unfettered aspect to it.”
Indeed, there was a crisp efficiency to a white short-sleeve shirt with a mandarin collar and oversize patch pockets, worn with rolled-up jeans made from precisely cut panels of bleached and white denim. Roomy parkas and shirt dresses contrasted with kimono-sleeved tops that were cinched at the waist.
Charlier also offered a more dressed-down take on the defined waist, knotting a powder-blue biker jacket over a flesh-colored skirt and top, for example. Polished dresses in a patchwork of cotton eyelet and floral fabrics combined graphic edginess with a romantic feel.