Guests at Iris van Herpen’s spring show were greeted by the sight of “Game of Thrones” star Gwendoline Christie lying motionless on a circular platform, caught in the web of a circular dress. The performance set the scene for a collection that drew inspiration from plants, with gossamer-weight creations using variations of lace.
A transparent lace studded with square crystals was as delicate as a cobweb covered in water drops — the effect particularly striking on pants worn under a black sleeveless tunic top with triangular pleated and cutout details at the waist. Black thread was spun into a weblike geometric mesh floated over a nude slip.
The show marked a turning point, as van Herpen left out her trademark concept pieces this season, grounding her experiments with 3-D printing by blending the technique with laser-cutting and hand-weaving. The effect was mesmerizing on latticelike silver lace dresses and skirts that shimmered with every step.
The outfits were paired with platform shoes, developed in collaboration with Finsk, which made models look as if they were hovering above ground. Chances are they will go down as a hit with front-row guest Daphne Guinness, who has never met an impossible shoe she didn’t like.