There was fresh air all around Isabel Marant’s spring collection. A new show venue — the vast, open-air Jardin du Palais-Royal, which Marant caught on the sunniest, warmest day of the week so far — cast the collection in a crisp, flattering light. And Marant crafted her mix of opposing aesthetics from bright ideas that have been swirling through the current fashion atmosphere: sport and tribal.
“It’s a new contrast of minimalism and something more decorative mixed together with a very sporty and easy attitude,” said Marant before the show. If the far-flung artisanal look has gone wide up and down the market, Marant has rights to it. It was a defining part of her original aesthetic, even if she’s minimized it with the ebb and flow of trends. It flowed on her spring runway in a big way with black Bajas and long jackets trimmed in colorful crafty embroideries; fringed scarves worn as wrap skirts and tops; tribal-printed peasant tops, and nomadic pants.
Travel-minded bohemia alone would have stranded the collection in the fashion kasbah, but Marant went global, incorporating the stylistic habits of the sporty, urban street clan as well. Cleaner versions of the exotica came pared down in black and shined up in gleaming metallic. A printed tunic had an ultra-light pink technical anorak tied around the waist like a skirt. A cropped, ruffled folksy shirt was worn with silver jeans. It was a flashy, crafty yet friendly merger of the tribes.