There were two sides to Junichi Abe’s story for spring: military and soft. The marriage produced a resourceful and utterly feminine collection as Abe mixed and matched the contrasting references with ease and perfection. To wit: He conjured a khaki Girl Scout uniform, cinched with a military web belt in the front but let loose like a cape in the back.

 

Elsewhere, a hybrid top — half roomy shirt, half parka with a large utility pocket — paired effortlessly with a ladylike pleated skirt in a charming color mix that included gold-plated lace. Like all the fabrics in the collection, the lace was specially developed to be able to withstand heat and render it shapeable.