Léa Peckre said her spring collection was inspired by the landscapes of David Lynch’s sci-fi movie “Dune.” Avoiding a literal approach, she translated those sparse yet sensual panoramas into graphic panels of silk and denim, which were floated on chiffon pleated skirts to form cracked geometric motifs. Throughout, Peckre toyed with contrasting fabric weights — featherlight chiffon versus crisp wool — to carefully controlled effect.
“I like to work with the contradiction of something really elegant but at the same time comfortable,” the designer said backstage, singling out a broad-shouldered Japanese denim jacket structured with built-in belts. Another jacket, spliced in half and hung off a single shoulder, was layered over a sheer black T-shirt and tailored pants. Elsewhere in the lineup, standouts included a Touareg blue pleated dress incorporating subtle horizontal bands of silk — a perfect blend of sophistication and ease.
Was it the halo effect of winning ANDAM’s First Collection prize in July? No matter, Peckre offered a much more consistent vision than last season.