As the first strains of the Rolling Stones’ “She’s a Rainbow” started playing, audience members entertained the unthinkable: Was Martin Grant going to bust out a psychedelic color spectrum for spring?
Rather, Grant appeared to have cherry-picked one lyric to inspire his collection. “Have you seen her dressed in blue?” Mick Jagger warbled, as models filed out in a succession of navy outfits. With fake lashes glued just above the corner of their eyelids, they paraded in looks that included a navy sleeveless summer dress with a cape back, a navy smock shirt belted over cigarette pants and a navy one-shouldered evening gown.
Grant also worked more casual fabrics, including denim and raffia-colored linen, into chic staples such as a trenchcoat, peacoat, bustier top and flares. As customers — who include Cate Blanchett and Lee Radziwill — have come to expect, it was all done in the best possible taste. The flower children will have to wait.