David Koma injected his trademark body-conscious aesthetic with a dose of military rigor in his spring collection for Mugler. As one might suspect, this was a sexed-up vision of the army: Khaki shirts were rendered in glossy leather while a navy ribbed sweater had silver buttons running down one arm.


Koma used hardware in a variety of ways — from rows of metallic bugle beads on pleated miniskirts to shimmering silver appliqués on a mesh vest — extending it all the way to the shiny frames on his debut collection of handbags for the label.


A series of navy-and-white outfits, including a peel-away shoulder blazer with a diagonal row of white buttons, felt more than a little familiar, though the designer carved a fresher path with his signature cutaway tank tops and midriff-baring dresses in the same palette as well as black, khaki and burnt orange.




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