Alessandro Dell’Acqua collections at Rochas are for fashion maximalists, who are die-hard about dressing up even as society swings ever more casual. His collections have been kooky concoctions of the hyper-feminine and ornate dedicated to explosions of color, cartoonish embellishment and insistent throwbacks to old-school couture. Fun and flamboyant, the clothes can feel at odds with modernity.
But they don’t have to be, as Dell’Acqua demonstrated for spring with a lineup that made the art of overdressing appealing and accessible for those below peacock-punching weight.
Dell’Acqua chose for his seasonal muse Gala Dalí, the wife of Salvador and a highly influential force of nature in the Surrealist art scene. That world of artful, amusing madness manifested in exaggerated sculptural bows; oversize black-and-white stripes; surf motifs and an improbably graceful and rich embroidery depicting a herd of giraffes under the rays of the sun.
Rather than multiply the decorative mania with daffy silhouettes, Dell’Acqua controlled with simple sporty shapes. Bows were placed on trim cropped tanks worn with slim skirts and the jungle and beach scenes appeared on slip dresses, tanks and on the back of an oversize blazer that was completely gilded over in front with lavish embroideries. It was over the top, but not too much. In fact, taken one at a time, each piece had immense personal charm — the kind that might catch the eye of a legendary artist.